No. 01The Autumn Escapes IssueSept & Oct

Escape Velocity

Fifteen places for two, at their best in September and October.

Oia's blue domes above the calderaThe Baie des Anges, NiceEvening light in Gion

Editor’s letter

The best weeks for a trip à deux are the ones after everyone else has gone home. In September and October the Mediterranean is still holding its summer heat, the restaurants have their tables back, and the light turns long and golden in the late afternoon.

Every place in this guide met three rules. The average highs had to sit between the high 60s and the mid 80s in at least one of the two months. It had to have a culture worth an afternoon and a table worth an evening. And, wherever possible, it had to be within sight of the sea.

Two cities run hot until October, and we have said so. Everything else is ready when you are.

68–85°FMostly coastalCulture & tablesSept–Oct

Contents

15 destinations
01

Italy

The Amalfi Coast

Lemon groves, cliff-hung villages and the most beautiful bus ride in Europe.

Positano from the water's edge
Positano from the water's edgePhoto: Bernard Gagnon / CC BY 4.0

Positano tumbles down to the water like a stack of sugared almonds, and from Ravello, a thousand feet up, the whole gulf looks like a painting. Hire a boat for a day, eat lunch with your feet in the sand, and save one sunset for the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone.

The Terrace of Infinity, Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
The Terrace of Infinity, Villa Cimbrone, RavelloPhoto: Mentnafunangann / CC BY-SA 3.0
Pastel Positano, stacked up the cliff
Pastel Positano, stacked up the cliffPhoto: Bernard Gagnon / CC BY 4.0
Atrani's tiny beach, one bend from Amalfi
Atrani's tiny beach, one bend from AmalfiPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 4.0
The lemons are the size of grapefruit
The lemons are the size of grapefruitPhoto: Bill and Kathy / CC BY 2.0

Culture

  1. Villa Cimbrone's gardens and its marble-bust terrace above the sea
  2. A private boat to the grottoes and swimming coves
  3. The Path of the Gods hike, with an early start and a ferry home
  4. Limoncello tasting in the Amalfi paper-making valley

Where to eat

  • Da AdolfoLaurito beach, PositanoReached only by its own little boat; grilled fish and white wine with peaches. Lunch only.
  • La SpondaLe Sirenuse, PositanoLit by some 400 candles every night. Book well ahead.

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02

Greece

Santorini

A drowned volcano, white villages on the rim and the most-watched sunset on earth.

Oia's blue domes above the caldera
Oia's blue domes above the calderaPhoto: Giles Laurent / CC BY-SA 4.0

The caldera is a 1,000-foot amphitheatre of red and black rock, and the villages perch on its edge like snow. Skip the Oia sunset scrum once and watch it instead from a quieter terrace in Imerovigli, then go down to Ammoudi Bay for grilled octopus at the water.

Oia's windmill and whitewash
Oia's windmill and whitewashPhoto: Norbert Nagel / CC BY-SA 3.0
The steps down to Ammoudi Bay
The steps down to Ammoudi BayPhoto: Moonik / CC BY-SA 3.0
A table for two, facing the Aegean
A table for two, facing the AegeanPhoto: Dietmar Rabich / CC BY-SA 4.0
Bell towers, Pyrgos
Bell towers, PyrgosPhoto: Dietmar Rabich / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. A sunset catamaran around the caldera and the hot springs
  2. Assyrtiko tastings at the cliff-top wineries
  3. The Bronze Age city of Akrotiri, buried by the eruption
  4. The clifftop walk from Fira to Oia (about 6 miles)

Where to eat

  • SelenePyrgosThe island's serious table: fava, cherry tomatoes and capers grown in volcanic soil.
  • Ammoudi Fish TavernAmmoudi Bay, below OiaFish so fresh it is still dripping, a few feet from the water.
  • Metaxy MasExo GoniaThe locals' favourite taverna. Cretan-leaning, and fully booked for a reason.

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03

Portugal

Lisbon

Seven hills, yellow trams and the saddest, loveliest music in Europe.

The Alfama from Miradouro de Santa Luzia
The Alfama from Miradouro de Santa LuziaPhoto: Jakub Hałun / CC BY 4.0

Lisbon rewards wandering: up through the Alfama's knotted lanes, down to the river, and up again to a miradouro (viewpoint) with a glass of vinho verde as the city turns gold. After dark, find a small fado house where the singer stands an arm's length away.

Terracotta roofs of the old town
Terracotta roofs of the old townPhoto: Matti Blume / CC BY-SA 4.0
Tram 28 climbing to the Alfama
Tram 28 climbing to the AlfamaPhoto: Ввласенко / CC BY-SA 4.0
Belém Tower on the Tagus
Belém Tower on the TagusPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 4.0
Pastéis de nata, still warm
Pastéis de nata, still warmPhoto: Dietmar Rabich / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. A fado night in the Alfama
  2. Tram 28 end to end, early, before the queue
  3. Sunset at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
  4. A day trip to the palaces and forested hills of Sintra

Where to eat

  • Cervejaria RamiroIntendenteGarlic prawns, clams and crab, then a steak sandwich for dessert, as tradition demands.
  • BelcantoChiadoJosé Avillez's two-Michelin-star dining room, for the big night.
  • ManteigariaChiadoThe custard tarts, hot from the oven every few minutes.

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04

France

The French Riviera

Blue water, hilltop villages and the painters who came for the light.

The Baie des Anges, Nice
The Baie des Anges, NicePhoto: Cayambe / CC BY-SA 3.0

Base yourselves in Nice and the whole coast is a short train ride away: Villefranche's ochre harbour, the eagle's-nest village of Èze, and Saint-Paul-de-Vence, where Matisse, Chagall and Picasso paid for their dinners in paintings.

Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat
Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap FerratPhoto: Miniwark / CC BY-SA 4.0
The church square in Èze
The church square in ÈzePhoto: Cayambe / CC BY-SA 3.0
Plane trees and pétanque, Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Plane trees and pétanque, Saint-Paul-de-VencePhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 3.0
Lavender soap at the Cours Saleya market
Lavender soap at the Cours Saleya marketPhoto: Ermell / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. The Matisse and Chagall museums in Nice
  2. The Fondation Maeght above Saint-Paul-de-Vence
  3. Èze's exotic garden, 1,400 feet above the sea
  4. The Cours Saleya flower market in the morning

Where to eat

  • La Colombe d'OrSaint-Paul-de-VenceLunch on the terrace beneath original Mirós, Légers and Picassos.
  • Chez PalmyreOld NiceA tiny Niçois bistro with a set menu. Book ahead.
  • Chez PipoNice portSocca, the chickpea pancake, straight from the wood oven.

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05

Sicily, Italy

Taormina

A Greek theatre, a smoking volcano and the best breakfast in Italy.

The bay below Taormina
The bay below TaorminaPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 4.0

The Greeks built their theatre here for the view, and it is still the view: Etna smoking on one side, the Ionian glittering on the other. Mornings are granita and brioche at a café table; afternoons are for the cable car down to Isola Bella and the beach.

The Teatro Antico, framed by Etna's clouds
The Teatro Antico, framed by Etna's cloudsPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 4.0
Ruins and mountains from the theatre's rim
Ruins and mountains from the theatre's rimPhoto: Nicolas Chadeville / CC BY-SA 4.0
Almond granita and brioche, the Sicilian breakfast
Almond granita and brioche, the Sicilian breakfastPhoto: Francesco Tosoni / CC BY-SA 4.0
Balconies along the Corso Umberto
Balconies along the Corso UmbertoPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC0

Culture

  1. A concert or sunset visit at the Teatro Antico
  2. A jeep or hike to Etna's craters, with lunch at a winery on its slopes
  3. Isola Bella's tiny nature reserve and pebble beach
  4. The hill village of Castelmola, with almond wine at the top

Where to eat

  • Otto GelengGrand Hotel TimeoA Michelin-starred terrace looking straight at Etna.
  • Bam BarVia di GiovanniGranita and brioche, the classic way to start a Taormina day.

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06

Italy

Puglia

White towns, olive groves and a dinner table set inside a sea cave.

Polignano a Mare's cove, between the cliffs
Polignano a Mare's cove, between the cliffsPhoto: ParisTaras / CC BY-SA 4.0

Italy's heel is slower, cheaper and more rustic than the Amalfi Coast. Stay in a masseria (a fortified farmhouse) among the olive groves, drive between whitewashed towns like Ostuni and the trulli of Alberobello, and spend a night in Polignano a Mare, where the old town hangs over the Adriatic.

Dinner by candlelight inside Grotta Palazzese
Dinner by candlelight inside Grotta PalazzesePhoto: Lucamato / CC BY-SA 4.0
The trulli of Alberobello
The trulli of AlberobelloPhoto: MPhernambucq / CC BY-SA 4.0
The walls of Ostuni, the White City
The walls of Ostuni, the White CityPhoto: Benjamin Smith / CC BY-SA 4.0
Blue fishing boats in Monopoli
Blue fishing boats in MonopoliPhoto: MPhernambucq / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. The trulli quarter of Alberobello, a UNESCO site
  2. Ostuni's white lanes at golden hour
  3. Bari Vecchia, where women make orecchiette in their doorways
  4. A cooking class at a masseria

Where to eat

  • Grotta PalazzesePolignano a MareA summer restaurant set inside a limestone sea cave. Dinner is the point, not the food.
  • Osteria del Tempo PersoOstuniStone-vaulted rooms and Puglian classics, like fava and chicory.

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07

Croatia

Dubrovnik & Hvar

A walled city of marble streets, and a lavender island a ferry ride away.

Dubrovnik's old town in the morning sun
Dubrovnik's old town in the morning sunPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 3.0

Walk Dubrovnik's walls at opening time, before the heat and the crowds, then lose an evening on the Stradun, its marble main street, worn to a shine. Afterwards take the ferry up the coast to Hvar for coves, island wine and long lunches on the Pakleni islands.

The Stradun, polished by centuries of footsteps
The Stradun, polished by centuries of footstepsPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 3.0
On the city walls
On the city wallsPhoto: Bernard Gagnon / CC BY-SA 4.0
Hvar town and its harbour
Hvar town and its harbourPhoto: Bernard Gagnon / CC BY-SA 4.0
The Pakleni islands, off Hvar
The Pakleni islands, off HvarPhoto: Dejan Sekuloski / CC BY 3.0

Culture

  1. The full city-wall circuit, about 1.2 miles
  2. The cable car up Mount Srđ at sunset
  3. A kayak around Lokrum island
  4. Island-hopping by boat from Hvar to the Pakleni islands

Where to eat

  • NautikaOutside the Pile Gate, DubrovnikTerraces over the sea between two fortresses. The anniversary table.
  • ProtoOld town, DubrovnikAdriatic seafood, served on the same street since 1886.

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08

Spain

Mallorca's Northwest Coast

Stone villages in the Tramuntana mountains and coves you reach on foot.

Cala Deià, with its fishermen's huts and beach café
Cala Deià, with its fishermen's huts and beach caféPhoto: Chixoy / CC BY-SA 3.0

Forget the resort strip. The northwest coast is mountain villages built of honey-coloured stone, terraced olive groves and turquoise coves at the bottom of goat paths. Deià is where Robert Graves lived and where you should stay; Valldemossa and Sóller are a short, winding drive away.

Valldemossa in the Tramuntana mountains
Valldemossa in the Tramuntana mountainsPhoto: Abrget47j / CC BY-SA 3.0
Waves at Cala Deià
Waves at Cala DeiàPhoto: Michal Osmenda from Brussels, Belgium / CC BY 2.0
A stone lane in Deià
A stone lane in DeiàPhoto: Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada / CC BY-SA 2.0
Clear water off the northwest coast
Clear water off the northwest coastPhoto: H. Zell / CC BY-SA 3.0

Culture

  1. Robert Graves's house in Deià
  2. The Valldemossa monastery where Chopin wintered
  3. The vintage wooden train from Palma to Sóller
  4. A hike along the GR221 dry-stone route

Where to eat

  • Sa ForadadaBelow DeiàWood-fired paella at the bottom of a hike, or reached by boat. Book ahead.
  • Ca's Patró MarchCala DeiàA seafood shack on the rocks above the cove.

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09

Türkiye

Istanbul

Two continents, a thousand domes and dinner on the water.

Ortaköy Mosque on the Bosphorus
Ortaköy Mosque on the BosphorusPhoto: Ank Kumar / CC BY-SA 4.0

Take a ferry at sunset (the city's cheapest and most romantic hour), with tea in a tulip glass while the minarets light up on both shores. Spend one day in Sultanahmet, the old city, and another across the Golden Horn in Karaköy and Galata, and finish with a hammam.

Hagia Sophia, lit for the evening
Hagia Sophia, lit for the eveningPhoto: Alexxx1979 / CC BY-SA 4.0
Galata Tower across the Golden Horn
Galata Tower across the Golden HornPhoto: Alexxx1979 / CC BY-SA 3.0
Spices and teas at the bazaar
Spices and teas at the bazaarPhoto: Martin Falbisoner / CC BY-SA 4.0
Inside Ortaköy Mosque
Inside Ortaköy MosquePhoto: A.Savin / FAL

Culture

  1. A Bosphorus cruise to the Black Sea mouth and back
  2. The Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern
  3. A traditional hammam, such as the Kılıç Ali Paşa
  4. The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar

Where to eat

  • MiklaThe Marmara Pera, BeyoğluModern Anatolian cooking on a rooftop with the whole city laid out below.
  • Çiya SofrasıKadıköy, Asian sideRegional Turkish home cooking, worth the ferry ride on its own.
  • Karaköy LokantasıKaraköyA tiled, buzzing meyhane for meze and rakı.

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10

SpainGo in October

Seville

Flamenco, orange trees and the late, long Andalusian night.

Plaza de España at golden hour
Plaza de España at golden hourPhoto: Carlos Delgado / CC BY-SA 4.0

Seville runs on a later clock. Siesta through the heat, then join the city outdoors around nine for tapas that become dinner, and a flamenco show that runs past midnight. By day, the Real Alcázar's tiled courtyards and gardens are the most romantic hours in Spain.

A flamenco tablao
A flamenco tablaoPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 4.0
Tiled stairs in the Real Alcázar
Tiled stairs in the Real AlcázarPhoto: Jebulon / CC0
Under the Setas de Sevilla
Under the Setas de SevillaPhoto: Benjamin Smith / CC BY-SA 4.0
The Setas, the world's largest wooden structure
The Setas, the world's largest wooden structurePhoto: kallerna / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. The Real Alcázar and its gardens, booked for the first slot
  2. Flamenco at a small tablao, or the flamenco museum
  3. Sunset from the Setas de Sevilla walkway
  4. A horse-carriage ride through María Luisa Park

Where to eat

  • El RinconcilloSince 1670Seville's oldest bar, where your tab is chalked on the wooden counter.
  • EslavaSan LorenzoInventive tapas, including the famous slow-cooked egg on mushroom cake.

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11

MoroccoGo in October

Marrakech

Riad courtyards, rose-scented hammams and a square that turns into a feast at dusk.

Majorelle blue, Jardin Majorelle
Majorelle blue, Jardin MajorellePhoto: Viault / CC BY-SA 4.0

Behind every blank wall in the medina is a riad (a courtyard house) with a fountain, orange trees and silence. Spend the days getting lost in the souks, and the evenings on a rooftop as the call to prayer rolls across the city and the smoke rises from Jemaa el-Fnaa.

The marble courtyard of the Bahia Palace
The marble courtyard of the Bahia PalacePhoto: Val Traveler / CC BY-SA 4.0
Lanterns in the souk
Lanterns in the soukPhoto: Petar Milošević / CC BY-SA 4.0
Dried fruit and nuts, piled high
Dried fruit and nuts, piled highPhoto: J. Ligero Loarte / CC BY-SA 3.0
A riad rooftop above the medina
A riad rooftop above the medinaPhoto: Grand Parc - Bordeaux, France from France / CC BY 2.0

Culture

  1. The Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum
  2. A hammam and argan-oil massage
  3. The Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs
  4. A night trip to the Agafay desert, for dinner under the stars

Where to eat

  • Al FassiaGuelizRun by women; order the slow-roasted lamb shoulder when you book.
  • Dar YacoutThe medinaA candlelit palace feast, with mint tea on the roof.
  • NomadNear the spice squareA modern Moroccan rooftop for lunch above the souk.

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12

JapanBest in October

Kyoto

Lantern-lit lanes, ten-course kaiseki and a night in a ryokan.

Evening light in Gion
Evening light in GionPhoto: Unknown / CC BY-SA 4.0

Kyoto has 1,600 temples, but the romance is in the small hours: the Gion lanes at dusk, a tea ceremony in a hidden garden, a ryokan (traditional inn) room with the bath drawn and dinner served course by course. Go out at dawn, and Fushimi Inari's gates are yours alone.

The torii gates of Fushimi Inari
The torii gates of Fushimi InariPhoto: Basile Morin / CC BY-SA 4.0
A kimono stroll through Higashiyama
A kimono stroll through HigashiyamaPhoto: Basile Morin / CC BY-SA 4.0
Pontocho alley after rain
Pontocho alley after rainPhoto: Wolfiewolf from Pontocho street in Nakagyo, Kyoto / CC BY 2.0
The bamboo groves of Arashiyama
The bamboo groves of ArashiyamaPhoto: Basile Morin / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. A night in a ryokan, with dinner and breakfast in your room
  2. A private tea ceremony
  3. Fushimi Inari at dawn, Arashiyama in the late afternoon
  4. An evening walk through Gion for a glimpse of a geiko

Where to eat

  • KikunoiHigashiyamaThree-Michelin-star kaiseki from the Murata family. A meal you will talk about for years.
  • PontochoAlong the Kamo RiverThrough September, restaurants dine out on wooden decks over the river.
  • Nishiki MarketDowntownPickles, grilled skewers and sake by the cup.

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13

Bali, Indonesia

Ubud

Jungle villas, rice terraces and temple ceremonies in the hills.

The Tegallalang rice terraces
The Tegallalang rice terracesPhoto: Vyacheslav Argenberg / CC BY 4.0

Ubud is Bali's cooler, greener heart: jungle ravines, emerald rice terraces, offerings on every step. Take a villa with a private pool over the river valley, a couples' massage most afternoons, and one early morning at the water temple of Tirta Empul.

Purification at Tirta Empul
Purification at Tirta EmpulPhoto: Saranabhi / CC BY-SA 3.0
A pavilion at the Ubud palace
A pavilion at the Ubud palacePhoto: Jakub Hałun / CC BY-SA 4.0
Besakih, Bali's mother temple
Besakih, Bali's mother templePhoto: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas / CC BY-SA 3.0
Rice fields at the edge of town
Rice fields at the edge of townPhoto: Jakub Hałun / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. Tirta Empul's holy springs (a sarong is provided)
  2. A Legong dance performance at the Ubud palace
  3. A sunrise walk on the Campuhan Ridge
  4. A Balinese cooking class with a market visit

Where to eat

  • Locavore NXTUbudA tasting menu built entirely from Indonesian produce, with its own farm and lab.
  • Hujan LocaleUbudWill Meyrick's Indonesian cooking in a breezy two-storey house.
  • Ibu OkaUbudBabi guling, Bali's famous suckling pig, at lunchtime.

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14

Portugal

Madeira

Volcanic cliffs in the Atlantic, flower gardens and a grand old hotel for afternoon tea.

Ponta de São Lourenço, the island's eastern tip
Ponta de São Lourenço, the island's eastern tipPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 4.0

A green, vertical island off the coast of Africa, Madeira is all sea cliffs, terraced vineyards and walking paths that follow the levadas (old irrigation channels) through laurel forest. Stay in Funchal, take tea on the terrace at Reid's, and drink the wine the island is named for.

Câmara de Lobos, where Churchill painted
Câmara de Lobos, where Churchill paintedPhoto: Dietmar Rabich / CC BY-SA 4.0
A levada path through the farmland
A levada path through the farmlandPhoto: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) / CC BY-SA 4.0
The cliffs at Cabo Girão
The cliffs at Cabo GirãoPhoto: Otto Domes / CC BY-SA 4.0
Fishing boats at Câmara de Lobos
Fishing boats at Câmara de LobosPhoto: Diego Delso / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. A levada walk, such as the 25 Fontes or Caldeirão Verde
  2. The glass skywalk at Cabo Girão, 1,900 feet above the sea
  3. The Monte toboggan ride, in wicker sledges, down to Funchal
  4. A Madeira wine tasting at Blandy's Wine Lodge

Where to eat

  • Il Gallo d'OroThe Cliff Bay, FunchalTwo Michelin stars, and an ocean-view terrace.
  • WilliamBelmond Reid's PalaceA Michelin-starred dinner, after afternoon tea on the terrace.

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15

Malta

Malta & Gozo

A knights' capital of golden stone, a silent city and a lagoon the colour of glass.

The Blue Lagoon, Comino
The Blue Lagoon, CominoPhoto: Frank Vincentz / CC BY-SA 3.0

In a few days you can walk Valletta's baroque streets, take a horse-drawn carriage through the 'silent city' of Mdina, and swim in the Blue Lagoon off Comino. The sea is warm well into October, and everyone speaks English.

Valletta's balconied streets
Valletta's balconied streetsPhoto: Rhododendrites / CC BY-SA 4.0
St Paul's Cathedral, Mdina
St Paul's Cathedral, MdinaPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 3.0
Luzzu boats in Marsaxlokk
Luzzu boats in MarsaxlokkPhoto: Berthold Werner / CC BY-SA 3.0
Pastries and pastizzi
Pastries and pastizziPhoto: Kritzolina / CC BY-SA 4.0

Culture

  1. St John's Co-Cathedral and its Caravaggio
  2. Mdina by night, when the day-trippers have gone
  3. A boat to the Blue Lagoon early, before the crowds
  4. A day on Gozo, at the citadel of Victoria and the salt pans

Where to eat

  • NoniVallettaModern Maltese cooking with a Michelin star.
  • Under GrainVallettaA Michelin-starred restaurant in a converted townhouse.
  • MarsaxlokkSunday fish marketLunch at the waterfront, from what came off the boats that morning.

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